It is a lovely day here in Sheffield. The temperature is in the low 20's with a few high clouds. As warm and pleasant as it gets. The students are all getting settled in and Sheffield has a real buzz about it. I enjoy the quiet of the summer, but this early term period, before everyone is ill and grumpy and down from the rain, is lovely. Actually, I am probably enjoying the autumn start of term more than usual this year because I am not responsible for anything in intro week for the first time in quite a number of years. This is despite the fact that I have a lot of new teaching in the first three weeks. It is nice not being in charge of things. I'll have to remember this.
One thing I was doing in anticipation for the start of term was go through some of the accumulated junk in my office (Yes, we are touching on the ridding theme again! A lot accumulates over the course of 10 years). I found a glasses case and when I opened it I found a pair of sunglasses that must have belonged to Simon when he was about 3 or 4 years old. It made me a bit sad. I can't throw them away, but it seems silly to move them to Hong Kong at Christmas. I may have to add some things to the storage stockpile that we have from the house. I definitely, however, will be getting rid of the accumulated piles of journals that I have collected over the past 20 years or so. (If anyone is interested in old copies of Economic Geography, Area, Regional Studies, The Annals of the AAG, Transactions or The Professional Geographer please let me know).
Another activity I have been involved with is getting things here in Sheffield organised so that I can work productively over the next 4 months. I have very particular needs around the aesthetics of work spaces and if they are not right--lighting levels, warmth, feelings of coziness, tidiness, noise, and usually view--I find it really hard to work. This may sound like procrastination, but experience has shown that a good working environment is key for my ability to think and produce what I hope is insightful writing. A few books need to find homes but I am confident the flat is nearly there and once I finish tidying the office it will be more or less ready as well. I have a good view from my office window of the tennis courts, but the view from the flat is of a car park, so it is imperative that I make that comfortable. I am also determined not to live like a student too much, and though there is a lot of Ikea in the flat I have also tried to hang pictures on the walls that are not posters but actual photographs or pieces of artwork.
While I am busy organising and starting the term here in Sheffield, my family has managed to unpack the remaining boxes that were left from when the movers arrived on the day I left Hong Kong. Adrian tells me I did not leave enough in storage, but unlike him, I gain comfort from having my things around me. My place comfort arises from the familiarity of my things, even if the setting is new. I feel grounded if I can see and touch my things. He gains comfort not from the things in the house, but from the familiarity of the place. While I nest, he return migrates--kind of like the swallows or the salmon do--always returning to the place where he grew up. At the moment we are both feeling far away from home--he because Hong Kong is not Kent, and me because my family and my things are in my new nest far away.
It is the Mid-Autumn festival in Hong Kong at the end of this week. This is a bit like a harvest festival. It is quite an important event lasting three days over the full mood--in the 8th month of the lunar calendar. The festival is has a very long history. One aspect of the festival is to observe the full moon, as the festival is linked to the worship of the moon goddess Chang E (alternative sources list her name as Chang O), the moon goddess of immortality. Unfortunately, this year, there has been a typhoon 3 warning with lots of rain associated with Typhoon Fanapi, which is not expected to clear until the day after the the moon is at its fullest. I don't believe there will be a lot of glimpses of the moon this year, but as there are also parties and everywhere there are lanterns it should be quite festive anyway. Hopefully the dragon will still wind its way through Tai Hang near Causeway bay. Our compound where we live is even having a party. A key food at the mid autumn festival are moon cakes. These are traditionally pastry filled with lotus seed paste and a salted egg yoke (to signify the moon), though there are many other varieties including ice cream. I really like moon cakes, but they are one of those foods that one either loves or hates as the combination of the flavours and textures are unusual (salty egg, sweet, stickiness of the lotus seed paste, chewiness of the pastry). People buy moon cakes and give them to friends as gifts. I gave a box to the people who watch the gates at the flat in Hong Kong before I left, and Adrian has given some to the people with whom he works. I have also brought several back to England with me. If I can't be with them on the festival day, at least I can eat what they are eating.
Tuesday 21 September 2010
Thursday 16 September 2010
Jetlag, socks...and did I mention it is cold?
I am back in the UK. Sheffield to be more precise. Sitting in my office. I've been up since midnight (it is now midday). I have jetlag. It was just two days ago, or Tuesday whenever that was, that I was welcoming the very efficient Hong Kong members of Crown Relocation into our flat to deliver our things from Ilkley. By the end of the day, most of our stuff was unpacked--at least in a way that is livable--and I was heading off on a plane to England via Bangkok, Dubai, and Manchester (It was a VERY long flight).
I have two things to say about the transportation systems that I engaged with. Firstly, Air travel is not what it used to be. I flew with Emirates, which was fine, though the longer portion of the trip involved a plane set up for shorter passengers. I got to the airport, passport etc. in hand only to be asked for the credit card with which I purchased the ticket. I bought this ticket quite some time ago and of course the correct credit card is sitting safely in Sheffield, far, far away. I had to purchase a new ticket for about £100 more than the original, and I have been told that I can get a refund for the original. I think the £100 is a penalty for being stupid or disorganised or whatever. No doubt I will be writing about the saga of getting the refund at some point--I am still waiting full satisfaction from the Ash Cloud incident with KLM and once had to take Expedia to small claims court, so I am sure that element will not be uneventful.
While this aspect of the travel was new for me and caused quite a bit of initial anxiety, there were other things that let the experience down a bit. Firstly, when I booked the flight I had not realised that the first leg stopped in Bangkok, rather than flying straight from Hong Kong to Dubai as the outward journey had done. This stopover involved sitting on the plane while those stopping their journey got off, the cleaning crew cleaning around the remaining onward passengers, having to remove cabin luggage so that the flight staff could ensure that every piece of carry on baggage belonged to someone, and then waiting while the Bangkok to Dubai passengers boarded. I guess, given that by this time it was about 1 am Hong Kong time, I should be grateful that we were made to remain on the plane and could watch the movies, instead of being required to disembark and re board. We did get all loaded on the flight, and then were delayed because one passengers luggage had to be removed because they did not show up at the gate. The flight from Dubai Airport, which does not appear to shut down at night like North American airports--you can buy anything you want at 4am--was similarly delayed though this time by a person who was drunk and had to be escorted from the plane and the luggage off loaded. I guess what is so disappointing was the change in attitude that passengers have of air travel. It has become so ordinary. When I was a child and flew to California to visit my grandparents and father in the summer holiday I used to get dressed up in my best clothes. Air travel was something you did in a formal way as it was special and to be taken quite seriously. Now people, probably sensibly, wear sweatpants--EVEN IN FIRST CLASS--because they are comfortable. I guess if you are spending that much on a first class ticket, you can wear whatever you want, but the pageantry and specialness becomes tainted a little. It is all a little more ordinary.
Secondly, the first major thing I noticed when I got back to the UK was that the North of England is worlds away from Hong Kong with its public transportation. I had to take a train from Manchester Airport to Sheffield. This is all fine and there are such trains. However this particular station has no signs that indicate destinations. Just information about the trains. As a traveller you must be aware that the train to Cleathorps is the one you want to catch if you want to go to Sheffield. As I was trying to work this out, I kept thinking how difficult it will be for all the Chinese students who were on my flight to find the relevant trains to take them to their new universities. Nightmare. To top it off, they changed the platform and provided no announcement about this. You just had to know to look at the signs. It was probably a good thing that there was a 40 minute wait for the train as the time was needed to sort out where to go and to unpack jumpers from the suitcase (did I mention that it is quite cold and rainy here just now?). In Hong Kong, the same distance would have cost a fraction of the £18 that I paid for my one way ticket and there would have been trains every one to three minutes. Arriving in Sheffield I then had to wait a further 10 minutes for the tram to take me to the flat. It is no wonder the English are so good a queuing. There is plenty of time to practice and the stakes are high if you miss what you are queuing for. No need to que in Hong Kong as another train or whatever will arrive at any minute.
What is nice about the return is the fact that the leaves are beginning to turn and they are pretty. It is a bit cold here (did I mention that?) and so there is a feeling of autumn. I have had to put on socks for the first time since early August today. One of my workmates said thy put the fire (heater) on last night for the first time. People are wearing coats. There is something quite business-like about having to wear socks and put the heater on. It marks a transition from holiday to work time. Of course I can imagine other ways of marking that transition as well, but this is what I have to work with at the moment, and as I have much work to do I must pull up my socks and get on with it until I can go back to the warmth of Hong Kong, see my family and leave my socks at the door.
I have two things to say about the transportation systems that I engaged with. Firstly, Air travel is not what it used to be. I flew with Emirates, which was fine, though the longer portion of the trip involved a plane set up for shorter passengers. I got to the airport, passport etc. in hand only to be asked for the credit card with which I purchased the ticket. I bought this ticket quite some time ago and of course the correct credit card is sitting safely in Sheffield, far, far away. I had to purchase a new ticket for about £100 more than the original, and I have been told that I can get a refund for the original. I think the £100 is a penalty for being stupid or disorganised or whatever. No doubt I will be writing about the saga of getting the refund at some point--I am still waiting full satisfaction from the Ash Cloud incident with KLM and once had to take Expedia to small claims court, so I am sure that element will not be uneventful.
While this aspect of the travel was new for me and caused quite a bit of initial anxiety, there were other things that let the experience down a bit. Firstly, when I booked the flight I had not realised that the first leg stopped in Bangkok, rather than flying straight from Hong Kong to Dubai as the outward journey had done. This stopover involved sitting on the plane while those stopping their journey got off, the cleaning crew cleaning around the remaining onward passengers, having to remove cabin luggage so that the flight staff could ensure that every piece of carry on baggage belonged to someone, and then waiting while the Bangkok to Dubai passengers boarded. I guess, given that by this time it was about 1 am Hong Kong time, I should be grateful that we were made to remain on the plane and could watch the movies, instead of being required to disembark and re board. We did get all loaded on the flight, and then were delayed because one passengers luggage had to be removed because they did not show up at the gate. The flight from Dubai Airport, which does not appear to shut down at night like North American airports--you can buy anything you want at 4am--was similarly delayed though this time by a person who was drunk and had to be escorted from the plane and the luggage off loaded. I guess what is so disappointing was the change in attitude that passengers have of air travel. It has become so ordinary. When I was a child and flew to California to visit my grandparents and father in the summer holiday I used to get dressed up in my best clothes. Air travel was something you did in a formal way as it was special and to be taken quite seriously. Now people, probably sensibly, wear sweatpants--EVEN IN FIRST CLASS--because they are comfortable. I guess if you are spending that much on a first class ticket, you can wear whatever you want, but the pageantry and specialness becomes tainted a little. It is all a little more ordinary.
Secondly, the first major thing I noticed when I got back to the UK was that the North of England is worlds away from Hong Kong with its public transportation. I had to take a train from Manchester Airport to Sheffield. This is all fine and there are such trains. However this particular station has no signs that indicate destinations. Just information about the trains. As a traveller you must be aware that the train to Cleathorps is the one you want to catch if you want to go to Sheffield. As I was trying to work this out, I kept thinking how difficult it will be for all the Chinese students who were on my flight to find the relevant trains to take them to their new universities. Nightmare. To top it off, they changed the platform and provided no announcement about this. You just had to know to look at the signs. It was probably a good thing that there was a 40 minute wait for the train as the time was needed to sort out where to go and to unpack jumpers from the suitcase (did I mention that it is quite cold and rainy here just now?). In Hong Kong, the same distance would have cost a fraction of the £18 that I paid for my one way ticket and there would have been trains every one to three minutes. Arriving in Sheffield I then had to wait a further 10 minutes for the tram to take me to the flat. It is no wonder the English are so good a queuing. There is plenty of time to practice and the stakes are high if you miss what you are queuing for. No need to que in Hong Kong as another train or whatever will arrive at any minute.
What is nice about the return is the fact that the leaves are beginning to turn and they are pretty. It is a bit cold here (did I mention that?) and so there is a feeling of autumn. I have had to put on socks for the first time since early August today. One of my workmates said thy put the fire (heater) on last night for the first time. People are wearing coats. There is something quite business-like about having to wear socks and put the heater on. It marks a transition from holiday to work time. Of course I can imagine other ways of marking that transition as well, but this is what I have to work with at the moment, and as I have much work to do I must pull up my socks and get on with it until I can go back to the warmth of Hong Kong, see my family and leave my socks at the door.
Sunday 5 September 2010
Home and Work
I realise it has been a while since I've posted anything. This is not because we have been sitting on our hands at home doing nothing worthy of writing about, it is just that I have been having difficulty thinking how I would organise this post. I've decided on a geographical organisation (rather than chronological or topical), though like most things geographical there are certainly instances where spaces fold on themselves, making linkages between non-spatially proximate places...
Starting farther away, we were recently visited by some friends from Ilkley who had been travelling in Australia and were on their way home. Simon and I were quite pleased to spend a Saturday afternoon with the Pattersons who had flown in early in the morning. I think the heat might have been a bit of a shock, as was the speed at which storms move through Hong Kong. As it is currently winter in Australia, the 34 degrees (C) and high humidity was a bit different than what they were used to. They were staying in the centre of Mong Kok in Kowloon and so we got the 7 bus from across the street (after an unusual bit of a wait) and rode it down to the ferry terminal at TST. Rather than jump on the ferry we went into Star House and had lunch at a Viet Nameese restaurant called Rice Paper, which has pretty good food. This proved to be a good decision because a cracking storm came through, complete with lightning, while we were eating. The storm soon passed, the weather cleared, the sun came out and by the time we had finished eating and looked around the mall a bit, we were able to get the star ferry over to central. We then took the train to Admiralty and walked through Hong Kong Park to the Peak Tram and went up to the top for a reasonable view. It was still a bit of a hazy day, but one could still see the sights. We then went back down and said goodbye in the late afternoon at the Mong Kok station. I am pretty sure they made it back to their hotel as I did receive a text. They were off to UK the next day, but it was great to see them. I hope they liked Hong Kong.
The Sunday saw a return visit for Adrian and I to Mong Kok. Mong Kok is in the centre of Kowloon and is where all the markets are. Our purpose was to go and find some cooking supplies. We were out and about in the early afternoon and it was surprisingly quiet. Mong Kok gets so busy and full of people that often one cannot see anything but crowds of bodies moving against each other. Think busy disco on a Saturday night. This particular Sunday, however, it was like a quiet street in Ilkley. We could not figure it out and thought is may have been due to the T1 warning. A T1 is the warning that is hoisted when there is a Typhoon in the area that could possibly hit Hong Kong. It did not come to HK in the end and we subsequently learned that the only people who pay any attention to the T1's are nervous expats and tourists. Everyone else doesn't get excited until the warning level is at 8. We still don't know why it was so quiet, but we did find a very interesting building on Reclamation street housing a market, which looks like it has been there since before Hong Kong was a British colony. This old, labrintine building with its corrugated roofing and dilapidated walls is surrounded, of course, by high rise buildings, but by squinting one might imagine what things were like before all the high rises came. We were able to buy a cast iron wok for about £4. There are much more expensive wok's but we have been informed that the best are cast iron. These are thinner than the heavy cast iron skillets that one gets in the US. Like the skillet, the woks also need seasoning before use. Properly seasoned, cast iron is great to cook on as it is non-stick but you can use metal cooking tools. We were given instructions to use pig fat and red chilli's to season the wok. You heat the wok on the stove and put the pig fat and chilli's in and stir them around for about a half hour ensuring that the pig fat is fully melted and the air in the house if full of smoke. Then you let this sit for 24 hours. Wipe out and you can use your wok. it works wonderfully and we have made a number of excellent meals since. We also purchased a fish knife made in Japan that has just one side of the blade sharpened and is perfect for cutting fish into sashimi, a very large cleaver and cutting board. The cooking supply shops make the cleavers and the woks right on the premises and you can see the shop owners pounding away in the back. On our way home we stopped off at the market in Sui Wo Court (just below where we live) and showed the wok to the butcher who immediately gave us a piece of pork fat for our new wok. A very successful outing!
The children have been fully engaged in activities much closer to home. Both are settled into their school, which is just across the road from where we live. Both have commented on how friendly all the other children are to them. Indeed Simon has been to a birthday party of one child already and Grace was invited to a movie last weekend and for a sleepover this coming weekend. Both are also finding the volume of homework something of a surprise. The expectation is that they spend 1-2 hours a night doing their work. This is involving a change of focus for them after school. No longer can they lay around or play on the Xbox, but must get right on it if they don't want to be up until 10:30 at night finishing writing tasks as Grace was the other night. They seem to be rising to the challenge and Grace in particular has distinguished herself having had her poem chosen by the teacher to be read out. She read it to us and we were similarly quite impressed. She will be very embarrassed at these comments, but it really was quite good. Simon has been selected for the school football (soccer) team and may actually end up playing for the age group above his year. He was a bit worried about the try outs, but as he scored two goals within about two minutes it turns out he needn't have been. He also is learning Mandarin chinese at quite a pace.
We had an interesting outing to Sai Kung this weekend. Sai Kung is in the New Territories and while boasting a Starbucks and quite a few ex -pats who are "escaping" from central, it is still quite rural and chinese. There main attraction is the seafront with its boat rides and seafood restaurants. You can either purchase fresh fish directly from the boats and have the restaurant cook it for you, or you can buy from the tanks that are at many of the restaurants themselves. The guidebook we had indicated that one could get a ferry from the pier out to one of the outlying islands where there is a golf course, a temple, and some ruins. It turns out that if you want to go to the south side of the island, not the side where the golf course is, you have to get a separate ferry located at some unknown (at least to us) place. We got the ferry to the golf course and discovered, once there that all that can be done from this ferry is play golf. So that is what we (Simon, Adrian, and I) did. We actually practiced hitting balls from the practice range. Neither Adrian nor I have played golf in years and years (and even then I was pretty rubbish) and Simon had never played, but we all agreed that the practice hitting we did was pretty fun. The practice range was in the shade and we were able to get a family pass for about £20, which included 1.5 hours on the range, unlimited balls, and the rental of two 5 irons and some other smaller club for Simon, and the ferry trip. By the end we were all able to hit the ball out toward the 60 yard marker. I think this is something we may do again. It was certainly something different than what we normally do on a Sunday afternoon. Moreover the setting was absolutely stunning. I've taken some photographs, but as these are on my big camera, rather than my Iphone they will have to wait until I get back to Sheffield before I can upload them.
This week is a busy one for us as we have several social obligations and we are hoping to go to Macau at the weekend. The boat with our things should also arrive in Hong Kong on Friday, and if we are lucky should be at the flat on Monday or Tuesday--just in time before I leave to go back to the UK on the Tuesday night.
Starting farther away, we were recently visited by some friends from Ilkley who had been travelling in Australia and were on their way home. Simon and I were quite pleased to spend a Saturday afternoon with the Pattersons who had flown in early in the morning. I think the heat might have been a bit of a shock, as was the speed at which storms move through Hong Kong. As it is currently winter in Australia, the 34 degrees (C) and high humidity was a bit different than what they were used to. They were staying in the centre of Mong Kok in Kowloon and so we got the 7 bus from across the street (after an unusual bit of a wait) and rode it down to the ferry terminal at TST. Rather than jump on the ferry we went into Star House and had lunch at a Viet Nameese restaurant called Rice Paper, which has pretty good food. This proved to be a good decision because a cracking storm came through, complete with lightning, while we were eating. The storm soon passed, the weather cleared, the sun came out and by the time we had finished eating and looked around the mall a bit, we were able to get the star ferry over to central. We then took the train to Admiralty and walked through Hong Kong Park to the Peak Tram and went up to the top for a reasonable view. It was still a bit of a hazy day, but one could still see the sights. We then went back down and said goodbye in the late afternoon at the Mong Kok station. I am pretty sure they made it back to their hotel as I did receive a text. They were off to UK the next day, but it was great to see them. I hope they liked Hong Kong.
The Sunday saw a return visit for Adrian and I to Mong Kok. Mong Kok is in the centre of Kowloon and is where all the markets are. Our purpose was to go and find some cooking supplies. We were out and about in the early afternoon and it was surprisingly quiet. Mong Kok gets so busy and full of people that often one cannot see anything but crowds of bodies moving against each other. Think busy disco on a Saturday night. This particular Sunday, however, it was like a quiet street in Ilkley. We could not figure it out and thought is may have been due to the T1 warning. A T1 is the warning that is hoisted when there is a Typhoon in the area that could possibly hit Hong Kong. It did not come to HK in the end and we subsequently learned that the only people who pay any attention to the T1's are nervous expats and tourists. Everyone else doesn't get excited until the warning level is at 8. We still don't know why it was so quiet, but we did find a very interesting building on Reclamation street housing a market, which looks like it has been there since before Hong Kong was a British colony. This old, labrintine building with its corrugated roofing and dilapidated walls is surrounded, of course, by high rise buildings, but by squinting one might imagine what things were like before all the high rises came. We were able to buy a cast iron wok for about £4. There are much more expensive wok's but we have been informed that the best are cast iron. These are thinner than the heavy cast iron skillets that one gets in the US. Like the skillet, the woks also need seasoning before use. Properly seasoned, cast iron is great to cook on as it is non-stick but you can use metal cooking tools. We were given instructions to use pig fat and red chilli's to season the wok. You heat the wok on the stove and put the pig fat and chilli's in and stir them around for about a half hour ensuring that the pig fat is fully melted and the air in the house if full of smoke. Then you let this sit for 24 hours. Wipe out and you can use your wok. it works wonderfully and we have made a number of excellent meals since. We also purchased a fish knife made in Japan that has just one side of the blade sharpened and is perfect for cutting fish into sashimi, a very large cleaver and cutting board. The cooking supply shops make the cleavers and the woks right on the premises and you can see the shop owners pounding away in the back. On our way home we stopped off at the market in Sui Wo Court (just below where we live) and showed the wok to the butcher who immediately gave us a piece of pork fat for our new wok. A very successful outing!
The children have been fully engaged in activities much closer to home. Both are settled into their school, which is just across the road from where we live. Both have commented on how friendly all the other children are to them. Indeed Simon has been to a birthday party of one child already and Grace was invited to a movie last weekend and for a sleepover this coming weekend. Both are also finding the volume of homework something of a surprise. The expectation is that they spend 1-2 hours a night doing their work. This is involving a change of focus for them after school. No longer can they lay around or play on the Xbox, but must get right on it if they don't want to be up until 10:30 at night finishing writing tasks as Grace was the other night. They seem to be rising to the challenge and Grace in particular has distinguished herself having had her poem chosen by the teacher to be read out. She read it to us and we were similarly quite impressed. She will be very embarrassed at these comments, but it really was quite good. Simon has been selected for the school football (soccer) team and may actually end up playing for the age group above his year. He was a bit worried about the try outs, but as he scored two goals within about two minutes it turns out he needn't have been. He also is learning Mandarin chinese at quite a pace.
We had an interesting outing to Sai Kung this weekend. Sai Kung is in the New Territories and while boasting a Starbucks and quite a few ex -pats who are "escaping" from central, it is still quite rural and chinese. There main attraction is the seafront with its boat rides and seafood restaurants. You can either purchase fresh fish directly from the boats and have the restaurant cook it for you, or you can buy from the tanks that are at many of the restaurants themselves. The guidebook we had indicated that one could get a ferry from the pier out to one of the outlying islands where there is a golf course, a temple, and some ruins. It turns out that if you want to go to the south side of the island, not the side where the golf course is, you have to get a separate ferry located at some unknown (at least to us) place. We got the ferry to the golf course and discovered, once there that all that can be done from this ferry is play golf. So that is what we (Simon, Adrian, and I) did. We actually practiced hitting balls from the practice range. Neither Adrian nor I have played golf in years and years (and even then I was pretty rubbish) and Simon had never played, but we all agreed that the practice hitting we did was pretty fun. The practice range was in the shade and we were able to get a family pass for about £20, which included 1.5 hours on the range, unlimited balls, and the rental of two 5 irons and some other smaller club for Simon, and the ferry trip. By the end we were all able to hit the ball out toward the 60 yard marker. I think this is something we may do again. It was certainly something different than what we normally do on a Sunday afternoon. Moreover the setting was absolutely stunning. I've taken some photographs, but as these are on my big camera, rather than my Iphone they will have to wait until I get back to Sheffield before I can upload them.
This week is a busy one for us as we have several social obligations and we are hoping to go to Macau at the weekend. The boat with our things should also arrive in Hong Kong on Friday, and if we are lucky should be at the flat on Monday or Tuesday--just in time before I leave to go back to the UK on the Tuesday night.
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