It looks like the weather has changed here in Hong Kong. While just a few weeks ago I was wearing my coat (yes, one needs a coat in the tropics), I am now contemplating the prospect of bare legs and arms and wondering if I will ever feel comfortable in a swim suit again. This morning it is already 78° F and it is only 9:30. Ironically, the human ecology of this place means that even while I am quite warm enough sitting in our flat, if I go out I will have to take a sweater with me.
Yes, that is correct, one always needs a sweater in Hong Kong, whatever the weather. Let me explain. First, Hong Kong is very seasonal. This came as a real surprise to me. I am told by longer term residents that this last winter (the one I have been moaning about) has been particularly long and cold. Indeed, this is partially confirmed by the Hong Kong Observatory (great web site for those of you interested in climate and weather stuff--see http://www.hko.gov.hk/contente.htm), which says that while February was not cooler than usual, January and March were certainly colder (and drier) than normal. Mean temperature this last March was 64° F. I know this sounds warm, but bear in mind that it is also quite humid here and so feels a bit colder. Also, there is NO central heating--anywhere. That is right, none. And, since the buildings are concrete it is often the case that it is colder inside than it is outside. So if you run to the cold side, like me, a sweater is definitely needed. What is more, there were some days last month when the temperature was only about 54° F. March was a bit warmer overall than January and February. You are probably beginning to get the picture. While the colder temperature has certainly been a regular talking point, but the last time this point came up one of our friends did say that she thought this was a common feeling every year. I think the message is that if one is planning a trip to Hong Kong in the winter months, bring something warm to wear just in case. I’ve seen any number of tourists shivering away in their shorts and tank tops. If you are moving here you should definitely bring at least some of your warm clothes, and your slippers, with you. Of course, alternatively, you could just buy what you need when you arrive!
While the climate explains why a sweater is needed in the winter months, what about the rest of the year? While Hong Kong does not have a mechanical fix for cold weather, it overcompensates for the possibility of heat by the extensive use of air conditioning. I say possibility because often even when it is quite cold outside, the air conditioning will be running. This is certainly the case with my office. Some days I needed gloves it was so cold. While it is not a sure thing that the AC will be on when it is cold, it is a certainty that it will be on when the temperatures do reach about 70° F. What is more, there is AC everywhere: on the buses, in the taxi, in buildings, on the MTR. About the only public place that I can think of that has an inside that is not air conditioned is the tram (or the Ding Ding as it is called locally). Of course this means that one dresses for the outside temperature and then brings a sweater along to accommodate the inside and its rather different climatological conditions.
I learned recently that the standard temperature for Air Conditioning to be set is about 68-72° F for working environments. This is a fairly universal setting world wide, though is harder to control in large open spaces like shopping malls. What I found particularly interesting was the fact that this setting is based on something called “thermal comfort”, which means a normal person wearing a normal amount of clothes is neither too hot or too cold. So who is this normal person and what are normal clothes. Well it turns out that the normal person is a man and, according to my quick google scholar search, men have, on average, higher resting metabolic rates than women. Moreover according to the speaker who was talking about such things, the expectation of normal clothing is based on a suit. So the normal male wearing a business suit should be comfortable in this temperature. Of course they could take off the suit coat, we could turn down the AC and the contribution to climate change, at both the local/immediate and global/long term scales, would be less extreme. Apparently the Japanese are thinking about this as a way to help reduce their CO2 emissions. Seems a pretty easy fix, perhaps there is a campaign here somewhere...
Thursday 14 April 2011
Monday 11 April 2011
A few things I've learned
I've now been in Hong Kong almost a whole academic term--I gave my last lecture today to the students I teach at HKU. I've enjoyed this teaching. The students have been great. They ask intelligent questions. They are friendly. They smile at you as you talk. At least one of us has had a good time. I find that the end of term always is a time of reflection. I'm still new here, but now I have finished something. The next time I teach this course, maybe in the autumn, it will be some form of repetition. It is a marker. Adrian made a similar comment at the weekend. Apparently the barista at the coffee shop on his campus is being moved to another store. This is his first real departure, or moving on. Up until now he has just been newly arrived. Now, in a minor way, he is left behind. This consideration of my/our changing place in Hong Kong has sparked an analysis of the things I have learned--what would I tell people about Hong Kong now that I have been here long enough to finish something? Here are my reflections in no particular order:
1. Hong Kong should be in everyone’s top 5 cities list. At the weekend we were discussing what the top cities were that we had ever been to or wished to visit. The criteria for a city and its inclusion in the list was a mixture of size (Ilkley is not really a city, though Sheffield might qualify) and having enough to do within the city--not within driving distance of the city-- to keep you entertained for a week. This second aspect means that a lot of largish places drop out of the running--Indianapolis for example (no offense intended to those from Indy, but from my experience there is just not enough IN Indy to keep me entertained for a week--this is a personal list after all). Adrian and I both included Hong Kong, Simon did not...
2. There are distinct advantages to living in the New Territories, rather than in Central or mid-levels or elsewhere on the island "where all the expats live". Actually lots of expats don't live on the island. Moreover, sometimes it is nice to be in places that aren't entirely focused on servicing the minority, expat community. But this is not the main point. Through informal survey I have discovered that those who live off the island tend to take in the whole of Hong Kong in their regular travels. I hear those on the Island may go for weeks before leaving the safe insularity of the island, whereas those who live life off Island go all over and experience the bounty that is Hong Kong--they go to the other islands, to the country parks, to neighborhoods where they do not live, to the valleys and mountains, and yes, even to central--maybe several times in a month. Off island life presents a wider and more diverse experience of Hong Kong. I realize this might be a controversial comment, but I am feeling a bit controversial today.
3. I still think the octopus card is the best thing ever and should be the first item purchased upon arrival. I am less enamored by the MTR than I was initially. It isn't that it isn't great, it is. Waiting times are staggeringly short. But there are a few design flaws that could be rectified, such as the need to change trains so many times when traveling. The inclusion of a circle line would help significantly reduce the need to change trains as would the joining of the east and west rail line to make it a through service. I think I might have given this issue a bit too much thought.
4. Trying to practice speaking Cantonese in Hong Kong is a bit like trying to practice speaking French in Paris. I have tried to say things any number of times, realizing that the failure to pronounce words correctly is a problem. Like the Parisians, Hong Kongers look at you in an uncomprehending manner when it is not perfect--indeed there are times when I am sure I have said the words correctly--tone and all--and even checked with a native to make sure I am saying them correctly and then in use been met by a blank stare. This language lark is difficult, and I am sure I am being unintelligible most of the time, though a bit more encouragement would be lovely. Sometimes people do help out a bit by repeating exactly what you thought you said back to you. In this instance I'm not quite sure if it is a correction or just a confirmation. Either way it is better than the blank expression.
5. One of the differences between the Westerners and the Chinese is that Westerners place more emphasis on precedent, whereas the Chinese give greater value to a common logic. This distinction underpins legal proceedings here as well. There is a wonderful book called Myself a Mandarin that recounts this distinction. Worth the read.
6. Negotiation of prices is not always appropriate. I'm still working out when it is and is not, but I think one does not negotiate for a price on food, but certainly on goods when you have to ask or if there is a calculator present. My children have actually worked out the terrain on this rather more than I have. Simon said he and his mates did an experiment whereby one of the western looking children asked the price and got one number, then they got one of their Chinese looking friends to ask and he got a lower starting price. You also get a lower price if you can say it in Cantonese (but see point 4 above). Grace says that first you have to get the amount to something fair, then you negotiate. She says that she starts at a quarter of whatever the person says. They then come down a quarter and she then says the quarter amount again or asks for their best price. They then come down to about half of the first price and then she says I'll split the difference with you. This apparently works for her. I am envious of her will power and strength. I cave in much earlier or walk away because it is too expensive and because I'm not sure if it is a bargaining situation or not.
7. It takes time to shop here. Some places are less expensive than others for exactly the same items. You can get good stuff in the area just north of Mong Kok which is just exactly like what is available in Central. I understand that there is a similar story to be told about shopping in Shenzhen. Linked to this is the idea that you can get just about anything you want in Hong Kong, but if you have several things on your list you will have to go to several places to find them. I often go to several stores and the wet markets to get what I want to make a meal. Like I said, it takes time to shop here. (BTW, you cannot get Becherovka here--we have confirmed this with the Czech Consular General, whom we met recently).
There are other things I've learned, but they will have to wait for another time as I now must go if I am to be on time for my Cantonese lesson. I need all the tutoring I can afford...
1. Hong Kong should be in everyone’s top 5 cities list. At the weekend we were discussing what the top cities were that we had ever been to or wished to visit. The criteria for a city and its inclusion in the list was a mixture of size (Ilkley is not really a city, though Sheffield might qualify) and having enough to do within the city--not within driving distance of the city-- to keep you entertained for a week. This second aspect means that a lot of largish places drop out of the running--Indianapolis for example (no offense intended to those from Indy, but from my experience there is just not enough IN Indy to keep me entertained for a week--this is a personal list after all). Adrian and I both included Hong Kong, Simon did not...
2. There are distinct advantages to living in the New Territories, rather than in Central or mid-levels or elsewhere on the island "where all the expats live". Actually lots of expats don't live on the island. Moreover, sometimes it is nice to be in places that aren't entirely focused on servicing the minority, expat community. But this is not the main point. Through informal survey I have discovered that those who live off the island tend to take in the whole of Hong Kong in their regular travels. I hear those on the Island may go for weeks before leaving the safe insularity of the island, whereas those who live life off Island go all over and experience the bounty that is Hong Kong--they go to the other islands, to the country parks, to neighborhoods where they do not live, to the valleys and mountains, and yes, even to central--maybe several times in a month. Off island life presents a wider and more diverse experience of Hong Kong. I realize this might be a controversial comment, but I am feeling a bit controversial today.
3. I still think the octopus card is the best thing ever and should be the first item purchased upon arrival. I am less enamored by the MTR than I was initially. It isn't that it isn't great, it is. Waiting times are staggeringly short. But there are a few design flaws that could be rectified, such as the need to change trains so many times when traveling. The inclusion of a circle line would help significantly reduce the need to change trains as would the joining of the east and west rail line to make it a through service. I think I might have given this issue a bit too much thought.
4. Trying to practice speaking Cantonese in Hong Kong is a bit like trying to practice speaking French in Paris. I have tried to say things any number of times, realizing that the failure to pronounce words correctly is a problem. Like the Parisians, Hong Kongers look at you in an uncomprehending manner when it is not perfect--indeed there are times when I am sure I have said the words correctly--tone and all--and even checked with a native to make sure I am saying them correctly and then in use been met by a blank stare. This language lark is difficult, and I am sure I am being unintelligible most of the time, though a bit more encouragement would be lovely. Sometimes people do help out a bit by repeating exactly what you thought you said back to you. In this instance I'm not quite sure if it is a correction or just a confirmation. Either way it is better than the blank expression.
5. One of the differences between the Westerners and the Chinese is that Westerners place more emphasis on precedent, whereas the Chinese give greater value to a common logic. This distinction underpins legal proceedings here as well. There is a wonderful book called Myself a Mandarin that recounts this distinction. Worth the read.
6. Negotiation of prices is not always appropriate. I'm still working out when it is and is not, but I think one does not negotiate for a price on food, but certainly on goods when you have to ask or if there is a calculator present. My children have actually worked out the terrain on this rather more than I have. Simon said he and his mates did an experiment whereby one of the western looking children asked the price and got one number, then they got one of their Chinese looking friends to ask and he got a lower starting price. You also get a lower price if you can say it in Cantonese (but see point 4 above). Grace says that first you have to get the amount to something fair, then you negotiate. She says that she starts at a quarter of whatever the person says. They then come down a quarter and she then says the quarter amount again or asks for their best price. They then come down to about half of the first price and then she says I'll split the difference with you. This apparently works for her. I am envious of her will power and strength. I cave in much earlier or walk away because it is too expensive and because I'm not sure if it is a bargaining situation or not.
7. It takes time to shop here. Some places are less expensive than others for exactly the same items. You can get good stuff in the area just north of Mong Kok which is just exactly like what is available in Central. I understand that there is a similar story to be told about shopping in Shenzhen. Linked to this is the idea that you can get just about anything you want in Hong Kong, but if you have several things on your list you will have to go to several places to find them. I often go to several stores and the wet markets to get what I want to make a meal. Like I said, it takes time to shop here. (BTW, you cannot get Becherovka here--we have confirmed this with the Czech Consular General, whom we met recently).
There are other things I've learned, but they will have to wait for another time as I now must go if I am to be on time for my Cantonese lesson. I need all the tutoring I can afford...
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
Posts
