I've now been in Hong Kong almost a whole academic term--I gave my last lecture today to the students I teach at HKU. I've enjoyed this teaching. The students have been great. They ask intelligent questions. They are friendly. They smile at you as you talk. At least one of us has had a good time. I find that the end of term always is a time of reflection. I'm still new here, but now I have finished something. The next time I teach this course, maybe in the autumn, it will be some form of repetition. It is a marker. Adrian made a similar comment at the weekend. Apparently the barista at the coffee shop on his campus is being moved to another store. This is his first real departure, or moving on. Up until now he has just been newly arrived. Now, in a minor way, he is left behind. This consideration of my/our changing place in Hong Kong has sparked an analysis of the things I have learned--what would I tell people about Hong Kong now that I have been here long enough to finish something? Here are my reflections in no particular order:
1. Hong Kong should be in everyone’s top 5 cities list. At the weekend we were discussing what the top cities were that we had ever been to or wished to visit. The criteria for a city and its inclusion in the list was a mixture of size (Ilkley is not really a city, though Sheffield might qualify) and having enough to do within the city--not within driving distance of the city-- to keep you entertained for a week. This second aspect means that a lot of largish places drop out of the running--Indianapolis for example (no offense intended to those from Indy, but from my experience there is just not enough IN Indy to keep me entertained for a week--this is a personal list after all). Adrian and I both included Hong Kong, Simon did not...
2. There are distinct advantages to living in the New Territories, rather than in Central or mid-levels or elsewhere on the island "where all the expats live". Actually lots of expats don't live on the island. Moreover, sometimes it is nice to be in places that aren't entirely focused on servicing the minority, expat community. But this is not the main point. Through informal survey I have discovered that those who live off the island tend to take in the whole of Hong Kong in their regular travels. I hear those on the Island may go for weeks before leaving the safe insularity of the island, whereas those who live life off Island go all over and experience the bounty that is Hong Kong--they go to the other islands, to the country parks, to neighborhoods where they do not live, to the valleys and mountains, and yes, even to central--maybe several times in a month. Off island life presents a wider and more diverse experience of Hong Kong. I realize this might be a controversial comment, but I am feeling a bit controversial today.
3. I still think the octopus card is the best thing ever and should be the first item purchased upon arrival. I am less enamored by the MTR than I was initially. It isn't that it isn't great, it is. Waiting times are staggeringly short. But there are a few design flaws that could be rectified, such as the need to change trains so many times when traveling. The inclusion of a circle line would help significantly reduce the need to change trains as would the joining of the east and west rail line to make it a through service. I think I might have given this issue a bit too much thought.
4. Trying to practice speaking Cantonese in Hong Kong is a bit like trying to practice speaking French in Paris. I have tried to say things any number of times, realizing that the failure to pronounce words correctly is a problem. Like the Parisians, Hong Kongers look at you in an uncomprehending manner when it is not perfect--indeed there are times when I am sure I have said the words correctly--tone and all--and even checked with a native to make sure I am saying them correctly and then in use been met by a blank stare. This language lark is difficult, and I am sure I am being unintelligible most of the time, though a bit more encouragement would be lovely. Sometimes people do help out a bit by repeating exactly what you thought you said back to you. In this instance I'm not quite sure if it is a correction or just a confirmation. Either way it is better than the blank expression.
5. One of the differences between the Westerners and the Chinese is that Westerners place more emphasis on precedent, whereas the Chinese give greater value to a common logic. This distinction underpins legal proceedings here as well. There is a wonderful book called Myself a Mandarin that recounts this distinction. Worth the read.
6. Negotiation of prices is not always appropriate. I'm still working out when it is and is not, but I think one does not negotiate for a price on food, but certainly on goods when you have to ask or if there is a calculator present. My children have actually worked out the terrain on this rather more than I have. Simon said he and his mates did an experiment whereby one of the western looking children asked the price and got one number, then they got one of their Chinese looking friends to ask and he got a lower starting price. You also get a lower price if you can say it in Cantonese (but see point 4 above). Grace says that first you have to get the amount to something fair, then you negotiate. She says that she starts at a quarter of whatever the person says. They then come down a quarter and she then says the quarter amount again or asks for their best price. They then come down to about half of the first price and then she says I'll split the difference with you. This apparently works for her. I am envious of her will power and strength. I cave in much earlier or walk away because it is too expensive and because I'm not sure if it is a bargaining situation or not.
7. It takes time to shop here. Some places are less expensive than others for exactly the same items. You can get good stuff in the area just north of Mong Kok which is just exactly like what is available in Central. I understand that there is a similar story to be told about shopping in Shenzhen. Linked to this is the idea that you can get just about anything you want in Hong Kong, but if you have several things on your list you will have to go to several places to find them. I often go to several stores and the wet markets to get what I want to make a meal. Like I said, it takes time to shop here. (BTW, you cannot get Becherovka here--we have confirmed this with the Czech Consular General, whom we met recently).
There are other things I've learned, but they will have to wait for another time as I now must go if I am to be on time for my Cantonese lesson. I need all the tutoring I can afford...
1. Hong Kong should be in everyone’s top 5 cities list. At the weekend we were discussing what the top cities were that we had ever been to or wished to visit. The criteria for a city and its inclusion in the list was a mixture of size (Ilkley is not really a city, though Sheffield might qualify) and having enough to do within the city--not within driving distance of the city-- to keep you entertained for a week. This second aspect means that a lot of largish places drop out of the running--Indianapolis for example (no offense intended to those from Indy, but from my experience there is just not enough IN Indy to keep me entertained for a week--this is a personal list after all). Adrian and I both included Hong Kong, Simon did not...
2. There are distinct advantages to living in the New Territories, rather than in Central or mid-levels or elsewhere on the island "where all the expats live". Actually lots of expats don't live on the island. Moreover, sometimes it is nice to be in places that aren't entirely focused on servicing the minority, expat community. But this is not the main point. Through informal survey I have discovered that those who live off the island tend to take in the whole of Hong Kong in their regular travels. I hear those on the Island may go for weeks before leaving the safe insularity of the island, whereas those who live life off Island go all over and experience the bounty that is Hong Kong--they go to the other islands, to the country parks, to neighborhoods where they do not live, to the valleys and mountains, and yes, even to central--maybe several times in a month. Off island life presents a wider and more diverse experience of Hong Kong. I realize this might be a controversial comment, but I am feeling a bit controversial today.
3. I still think the octopus card is the best thing ever and should be the first item purchased upon arrival. I am less enamored by the MTR than I was initially. It isn't that it isn't great, it is. Waiting times are staggeringly short. But there are a few design flaws that could be rectified, such as the need to change trains so many times when traveling. The inclusion of a circle line would help significantly reduce the need to change trains as would the joining of the east and west rail line to make it a through service. I think I might have given this issue a bit too much thought.
4. Trying to practice speaking Cantonese in Hong Kong is a bit like trying to practice speaking French in Paris. I have tried to say things any number of times, realizing that the failure to pronounce words correctly is a problem. Like the Parisians, Hong Kongers look at you in an uncomprehending manner when it is not perfect--indeed there are times when I am sure I have said the words correctly--tone and all--and even checked with a native to make sure I am saying them correctly and then in use been met by a blank stare. This language lark is difficult, and I am sure I am being unintelligible most of the time, though a bit more encouragement would be lovely. Sometimes people do help out a bit by repeating exactly what you thought you said back to you. In this instance I'm not quite sure if it is a correction or just a confirmation. Either way it is better than the blank expression.
5. One of the differences between the Westerners and the Chinese is that Westerners place more emphasis on precedent, whereas the Chinese give greater value to a common logic. This distinction underpins legal proceedings here as well. There is a wonderful book called Myself a Mandarin that recounts this distinction. Worth the read.
6. Negotiation of prices is not always appropriate. I'm still working out when it is and is not, but I think one does not negotiate for a price on food, but certainly on goods when you have to ask or if there is a calculator present. My children have actually worked out the terrain on this rather more than I have. Simon said he and his mates did an experiment whereby one of the western looking children asked the price and got one number, then they got one of their Chinese looking friends to ask and he got a lower starting price. You also get a lower price if you can say it in Cantonese (but see point 4 above). Grace says that first you have to get the amount to something fair, then you negotiate. She says that she starts at a quarter of whatever the person says. They then come down a quarter and she then says the quarter amount again or asks for their best price. They then come down to about half of the first price and then she says I'll split the difference with you. This apparently works for her. I am envious of her will power and strength. I cave in much earlier or walk away because it is too expensive and because I'm not sure if it is a bargaining situation or not.
7. It takes time to shop here. Some places are less expensive than others for exactly the same items. You can get good stuff in the area just north of Mong Kok which is just exactly like what is available in Central. I understand that there is a similar story to be told about shopping in Shenzhen. Linked to this is the idea that you can get just about anything you want in Hong Kong, but if you have several things on your list you will have to go to several places to find them. I often go to several stores and the wet markets to get what I want to make a meal. Like I said, it takes time to shop here. (BTW, you cannot get Becherovka here--we have confirmed this with the Czech Consular General, whom we met recently).
There are other things I've learned, but they will have to wait for another time as I now must go if I am to be on time for my Cantonese lesson. I need all the tutoring I can afford...
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